Two of Japan's Three Great Udon — In One Shop

Japan's three great udon traditions are Sanuki (Kagawa), Inaniwa (Akita) and Mizusawa (Gunma). Yummy, a Hong Kong udon restaurant, serves two of the three.

Sanuki — thick, springy, chewy

Sanuki comes from Kagawa Prefecture on Shikoku, known as "udon prefecture". Thick noodles made with plenty of water, with a firm, bouncy bite. This is what most people picture when they hear the word "udon".

Inaniwa — the noodle once reserved for feudal lords

Inaniwa comes from Inaniwa-chō, Yuzawa City, Akita Prefecture. It is almost the opposite of Sanuki: flat and thin, soft in the mouth, silky going down, faintly translucent when cooked.

According to Japan's Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MAFF):

• The technique was established in 1665, by the first Inaniwa (Satō) Kichizaemon, who inherited and refined the method of Satō Ichibei
• In 1752 it became an official provision for the Satake lords of Akita domain
• The method was passed to a single heir and never taught outside the family
• It was only released publicly in 1972, when the seventh generation Satō Yōsuke opened it up to build the local industry

In other words — the general public has been able to eat Inaniwa udon for only about fifty years.

MAFF also notes that Inaniwa udon's production method and origin are restricted: anything that does not meet the standard cannot call itself "Inaniwa udon".

Hand-kneaded vs hand-stretched

Sanuki and Inaniwa are not simply thick and thin versions of the same thing. The methods differ. Sanuki is teuchi (hand-kneaded); Inaniwa is tenobe (hand-stretched).

Both, in Diamond Hill

Yummy has brought both to Hong Kong since 2004. Three broth bases: bonito, tomato and miso.

Alongside the udon there is fresh-cut sashimi and clams steamed in sake, plus Uji matcha and hojicha from a Kyoto tea house founded in 1922. A broad menu with many combinations — around HK$80–100 per person.